Tuesday and Wednesday, May 22 – 23, 2012.   Trip to Athens airport, Corinth, and on to Peggy and Guy’s home in Neohori.      Very heavy rain and thunder woke us up on Tuesday morning.   We met for a very hearty breakfast of eggs and coffee….more than most of us could eat.  By 8:30 a.m. we were on our way to the Zagreb airport for our flight to Athens, via Dubrovnik.   

Guy was behind the wheel once again (See photo) for the last leg of his marathon drive through Croatia and Bosnia.  Since May 10^th he had driven over 1,100 miles of city, rural, and mountain roads, through rain, almost  snow, fog, and sun.  Guy has the heart of a tour guide and long distance bus driver who is always pleasant, smiling, and makes the passengers feel.....even when stopped by police – that all is well – nema problema.  Well, it was only because the lights were on and were supposed to be on or was it off???….never quite clear…but Guy was not phased (even though this happened twice) and kept on truckin’!   So, although no one kept track of exact hours….at about 40 miles per hour (max through the mountains – often less than 40)  Guy spent approximately 40 hours behind the wheel....with stops and stops for photos of laundry, sheep, houses, rivers, WC stops, coffee stops, grocery store, fruit stand stops, and we are finally here hotel stops.  Thank you, Guy!     

Fortunately, the sun came out before we got to the Zagreb airport where Vesna, who was our first host in Croatia, was waiting to greet us and send us off to Greece.   We were all delighted to see her and have a bit of time to catch up before going through security.  That, however, was not to be the case.   We chatted briefly and decided to check our baggage and then visit.   Rose and I were first to check in and our baggage was pulled instantly.  We were told to take our bags through a special security check point.   

Light bulbs went off instantly and we KNEW the problem….sure enough – the security guard scanned the bag and barked, “Do you know what you have in there?”  Yes, I replied an ammunition shell!   “A grenade” he corrected or at least it sounded like that’s what he said, followed by “Open your bag!” 

Following directions I did so, explaining the presence of the vase from Sarajevo.  By now Peggy and Guy’s and Brenda and Glenn’s bags had also been pulled.  We were lined up and waiting.  The police had been called.   The ‘grenade” had been pulled and was being closely examined inside and out top and bottom.    Others were called.   By now the first security guard was saying, “Yes, yes, I know, but there are procedures.”   The vase was taken away for inspections and I was resisting the urge to photograph the inspection procedures.   Eventually, the vase was returned, tucked in my suitcase, and we were all waved on our way…..we must not truly fit the terrorist pattern, as no other suitcases were inspected. We were free to hug Vesna goodbye, go through check-in security and make our way to the plane.

The flights to Dubrovnik and then Athens were enjoyable, but slightly late.  We arrived in Greece, went through customs with nothing to declare…so nothing was inspected.   Standing outside the terminal was the car rental representative and we were on our way to Corinth, the ruins, the churches, and Moreno’s Hotel and Restaurant.  On our way we stopped at the Isthmus/Corinth canal,  the idea for it was  conceived about 500 b.c., started 2,000 years ago and finished in the 1930’s.   (See Photos)   

Moreno’s host was waiting for us with a traditional Greek meal including bread, Greek salad, pasticcio (long macaroni, cheese, lamb, and Bechemel sauce.)  The best macaroni and cheese EVER was followed by Greek orange and honey syrup cake with outstanding vanilla ice cream.   The cake was the best EVER EVER cake!!!  I don’t really like cake but ate all of mine and then some.  (Recipes can be found on line) 

Wednesday began with a simple Greek breakfast after which we packed up and headed off to see the ruins of Corinth, a bit of the village, and begin the 3 hour drive to Peggy and Guys with a few stops for panoramic photo ops.  (See photos.)   

We are in two cars in Greece, so Peggy is driving one and Glenn the other.  Needless to say, Guy is enjoying being a passenger. 

We rode through the mountains, once again, stopped for a great panoramic view, which included a flock of sheep and miles of mountains and villages.  We stopped in Kalamata to visit the market, have lunch, and be entertained by a strolling accordionist.   (See photos) 

Eventually, we arrived in the Mani area of Greece and Peggy and Guy’s house, which is reached by a death defying drive up a road of hair pin turns and twists and straight up the mountain.  The views are phenomenal with the mountains on one side and the sea on the other.  Their area of the Neohori village is constructed of stone streets, stone houses, and stone walls.   Their house is about 200 years old (on the outside) and sits among other houses as old, older, and much newer, but all of the same construction.   Their home was purchased when it was one of the local ruins and has been rebuilt to include very modern living quarters on several different levels.  All areas of the home are beautiful, with nooks and cranies and stairs and surprises in architectural touches – well worth the drive up the mountain. (See a few photos today – more in next blog)

After settling in, we sat on the balcony enjoying the view of the neighboring rooftops.  Then a few of us went for water at the local spring faucet. (See photos.)   Our late afternoon/evening consisted of a trip to Stoupa and Agios Nikolas, two seaside towns at the foot of the mountain.  In Stoupa, we visited Voula, who is a local historian dedicated to keeping the Mani history and customs alive.  Not only is she a fantastic gardener, she also raises silkworms (which until the 70’s was a local cottage industry.) See photos.  Stoupa has beautiful beaches and is a popular resort area.   

From Stoupa, we walked about three miles to Agios Nikolas on a paved path open only to walkers. It was most delightful and enabled us to explore one of the many houses that were built on speculation a few years back and never finished.  (See photos) It also gave us otherwise unavailable views of the sea, olive groves, and even baby chicks in a cage hanging from a tree to keep them safe from local fox.     

Once in Agios Nickolas, we enjoyed a long and leisurely dinner overlooking the harbor and its many small fishing boats.  Once again, we enjoyed wonderful food, excellent service, and hours of pleasant people watching and conversation. Fortunately, Guy and Glenn had worked out the way home and instead of walking back three miles in the dark, we rode home ready for our first night in the mountains of Greece.